Simple Questions - August 07, 2021
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Will my 1080p 144Hz Monitor still run at 144Hz if I plug another 768p 60Hz as a second monitor?
Depends on the hardware you have and what games/programs you're running. But most probably yes
Specifically, it's an old AOC VGA office monitor with DVI converter on RX580 and I play fps games like Valorant, Warzone, and Enlisted so I really need that 144hz. Second monitor is just for youtube and discord. Do you think it'll be fine?
A second display will barely add any load, yes i think it'll be okay
I don't wanna risk turning my PC right now until my UPS is fully charged. I had my main SSD temporarily replaced to a 120gb SSD after my old one died from a power outage, what would happen to the programs I had installed in my HDD? I think the HDD is working but will the computer know those programs exist? Or go through a whole reinstalling procedure?
My mobo (B550 Aorus Elite) has only four SATA ports. Bought a SATA expansion card (PCIx1). It's an asmedia 106x controller.
Anyway, after struggling to find a W10 driver, I finally did, and my HDD worked great. Passed HDD Tune normally. However, if I try to copy large amounts of files, it starts freezing up my PC and ends up freezing completely.
I attempted to update its firmware, but I can't boot into DOS, my mobo (B550 Aorus Elite) doesn't support IDE.
Anyone got any suggestions?
sadly, I don't have direct a solution to your problem, but I have a suggestion/recommendation:
if you have that many drives in your system, you should probably start thinking about investing into a NAS (prebuilt or DIY)
I have a plan for that, but currently I have absolutely no space to put anything anywhere anymore
Gonna have to figure something out I guess
I bought a red devil RX 6700xt Wich is a pretty heavy card. Is it really worth getting a sag bracket or will I be fine without one? (My Mobo has a metal pcie port for stability)
Most of the time it's just fine without a bracket
I have an lg ultragear 32gn600b.aus with amd freesync. I have a 3070 for my future build and my local Best Buy employee says I’m able to use it with the freesync on the monitor. Is this true? I can’t seem to find a proper answer anywhere
Nvidia started supporting Freesync with Pascal (GTX 1000 series), so it should work on a 165Hz 1440p monitor.
Yes, that's true
Currently i'm using ASRock B450 Pro 4 + Ryzen 2600x and 3080, playing on 3440x1440 144hz resolution.
is it worth it if i upgrade to 5600x and the motherboard to B550 ?
I don't think it'll be bottlenecking it enough at that resolution but I'm not too familiar with ultrawide performance. You could try dropping the resolution a little bit maybe and see if that results in a boost? if it does I'd think that your CPU isn't bottlenecking it much/at all. The higher resolution you're at the less the CPU bottlenecks which is why I'd think that would be a quick indicator. I went from a 3600 to a 5600x (3080 on both) and I did notice a boost in some games but not all (1440p)
well dont upgrade your mobo, yours will work fine after a bios update. I think it's worth it, I've noticed I'm slightly cpu bottlenecked with my 8700K, 3080, same resolution
Does anyone know good spacious cases for the z390 aorus pro wifi mobo. I was also going to include a scythe mugen 5 air cooler and I’m having trouble with dimensions and what cases it should fit with. Furthermore, what gpus should I approach in size with this. Thank you 🙏
the mugen 5 is nice and stout, most cases would be fine. but the 4000D airflow and P400A are good
I am planning to build a pc in the next 2 months. Although I have some knowledge about cpu and gpu, I have no idea how to decide the remaining components. Can someone please explain how do I know which components to choose and what should I look for before buying anything?
Well first and foremost. Get a motherboard that is compatible with your cpu, ive read something about matching RAM speed to ryzen cpus.
Power supply unit, 650-700W seem to be average.
Make sure your case has proper ventilation as well. A hot dusty pc wont last very long.
I'll keep this brief. Things to look out for aside from compatibility:
* Motherboard - VRM/thermal performance, ports, features. Check out reviews from Hardware Unboxed, Kitguru, or AHOC.
* RAM - Speed and timings. This can get complicated, but lower timings/latencies and higher speeds, the better. Of course balance it out depending on your build.
* Case - Thermal performance, ease of assembly, build quality, looks. Check Gamers Nexus, Kitguru, or Optimum Tech for reviews.
* Cooler - Thermal performance, silence, case and RAM clearances, maybe looks and ease of assembly. Hardware Canucks did a roundup recently of budget coolers. Otherwise, check Gamers Nexus, Kitguru or TechPowerUp for reviews.
* PSU - Wattage, efficiency (80+ white/standard, bronze, gold, etc.), overall reliability. PSU reviews are rare nowadays, despite being very important parts, because testing them properly require specialist tools. Gamers Nexus is branching out to PSU testing soon. For now, consult the PSU tier list on the LTT forums.
* Fans - Airflow or pressure (depending on where you'll put it), interface (PWM vs DC vs Molex, don't get Molex), noise, looks. Not much proper reviews of these either, but they're not really that critical. As long as you have enough decent fans, you're good. Noctua and Arctic are common recommendations.
* Monitors - Size, resolution, aspect ratio, response times, and color gamut coverage. Choose something that your GPU can keep up with. Check Hardware Unboxed, Rtings, Bijan Jamshidi, and techless for reviews.
* SSD: Read and write speeds, reliability, NVMe version. Kitguru and TechPowerUp do SSD reviews , but /r/newmaxx has a whole-ass spreadsheet for SSD specs.
I just built a computer (i7 10700, 3070, 16 gb vengeance ram, 1tb ssd, 700w power supply, z590 ultra) all inside of the beautiful lian li o11 dynamic and I was wondering if it would be worth it to add 3 fans on thé bottom. My current setup is 360mm rad on top as exhaust and 3 120mm fans on the side as intake I was thinking about putting 3 intake on thé bottom and Making my side and top exhaust. Would that work temp wise?
bottom intake fans blowing right onto the gpu should help
Yes that’s what I was thinking this would be purely for aesthetics though because currently the 3 intakes on thé side look ugly because I am seeing the back of the fans so I was thinking that by putting 3 intake on the bottom and the side and top as outtake that I could fix that problem. I have 6 deepcool rf120 if anyone is wondering.
Yeah it’s on top of an ikea desk which are on top of wood floors
I have a quite old Samsung 950 Pro 256GB in my main system right now and I wanted to upgrade to a faster and larger boot drive. The 980 (non pro) 1TB is pretty damn reasonable and although read write speeds are faster, IOPS most likely too, I wonder how they compare because the 980 being a mid range device is lacking in terms of cache and what not compared to the Pro which even though is older has more advanced features.
I wish reviewers published how they do their tests so you can try to replicate it on your own system and compare, but I'm stuck with just spec sheet comparisons. Would the 980, even though it's a mid range device be a noticeable improvement over my 950 Pro in terms of speed, not capacity?
Depends what you're doing on it. But if you are just booting windows, playing some games and using the web, then basically no. Even a half decent sata drive is within a few percent of loading time performance for Windows and games compared to the fastest gen4.0 drives.
If you're video editing or doing something that actually requires fast transfers, then fair enough. But you'll notice high end SSDS never boast about gaming or program load time performance anymore, and it's because it effectively hasn't changed since the introduction of SATA SSDs. I personally feel that SSDs are the one thing that gamers consistently spend too much money on for no performance benefit.
Okay, well in that case, it's a good thing. I'm not a heavy user, so the biggest benefit would be the increase in SS storage capacity for me. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be losing performance by going to a mid range drive. I imagined that the generational improvements would at least keep it on par with an older Pro drive.
To be honest the Pro drive was an over-purchase at the time. I think I had a bit of extra money to spare and found a decent deal on the drive.
Yeah very fair. I ended up going for a SATA MX500 2TB which was about the price of a gen 4 1tb, and I'm very glad as the loading time differences are not noticeable without physically timing the difference, and obviously double the storage is brilliant when some individual games are over 100gb
Unfortunately I'm a data hoarder and I have only 4 SATA ports on my board so they're all going towards spinny drives with lots of capacity. Currently have an 8TB, 4TB, and 1TB drive on those ports. Gonna replace a different failing 1TB with another 8TB when the time comes. And I technically have 2 m.2 slots to work with, but the second one disables a SATA port, so I'm sticking with one, and going from 256GB to 1TB will be a nice little upgrade in capacity for solid state. Unfortunately 2TB m.2's are out of reach for me at the moment.
I recently got a prebuilt pc to add parts myself. Unfortunately, the PSU (CV650) is screeching and the fans slowing down when it does. I'm expecting it to pop soon.
I need a replacement and I'm interested in the modular PSUs but is there anything I need to consider before picking up a new one and are there any recommendations?
Also, the way it's been built has the power supply cable clamped under the MOBO. I don't particularly want to have to remove all the parts to replace it, so was thinking I could use wire cutters and remove those wires that way rather than pull everything out, especially since the PSU is going to die anyway. That a bad idea?
Thanks in advance.
If your psu is bad, you should get a replacement from the prebuilt company.
But if you want a new one, look at the ltt psu tier list
And the a very bad idea. Never cut any wires in a PC, you don't need to
Yeah, but given the amount of time it's going to take to swap out the PSUs, consult with the company and go from there, I think I'd prefer to just go and get a better modular one.
Okay, thanks, I'll take a look.
Alright, no wire cutters. Guess I'll have to shift the MOBO.
Seasonic, EVGA, superflower, and corsair are recommended frequently. Fractal, thermaltake, bequiet, and some others all make decent units too. LTT forums have a tier list here: [https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list/](https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list/)
If you go to r/buildapcsales and wait for a deal to pop up usually somebody will take the guess work out by putting the tier in sale title. You didn't list components on your prebuilt but 750w is enough for pretty much everything right now (exceptions being crazy overclocks I guess). This is a decent deal right now w/ a coupon code: [https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-leadex-iii-sf-750f14hg-750w/p/1HU-024C-00006](https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-leadex-iii-sf-750f14hg-750w/p/1HU-024C-00006). Keep in mind a few extra bucks on a PSU never hurts. Very early rumors are pointing to next gen GPUs being even more power hungry than current gen, so 850w might be a better idea but a quality 750w like the linked one should still be plenty for a long time.
edit: only consideration really with modular PSUs is to use the cables they come with. They are not interchangeable between brands or even between models of the same brand sometimes. Mostly all modular PCs will come with all cables you'll ever need and then some BUT if you happen to lose one either be sure to reach out the manufacturer directly or get aftermarket replacements specific to that model.
I'm a first time builder trying to rebuild my brothers old pc but know nothing about any of it..He said to behind with I'd just need more ram and a better graphics card. I've gotten them but now that I'm trying to turn it on, it won't turn on. The psu shows that it has power but I can't get anything more than that. Unfortunately all the components in the tower except the graphics and ram are at least 10 years old so I'm having a hard time finding a diagram to reference. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
You should post the full specs and photos
I'm not sure of all the specs because I don't know if what all I'm looking for. The tower is a compaq presario with an amd Athlon x2 5400 dual core processor. (I think). I just put a GeForce gtx 1660 super graphics in as well.
Just to add on to it not being plugged in, that PSU is 250w. EVGA recommends a 450w PSU. You could probably get by with less considering the rest of the parts but either way it doesn't look like there is an 8 pin pcie cable on that PSU. You're going to have to lookup the specific model number of your PC and see if there are any PSUs w/ an 8pin PCIE cable and higher wattage that will fit in that case.
Thanks for the info! At this point I've started just building one from scratch instead of trying find the compatible stuff for all if this
You need to plug pay cables into your graphics card
I don't think I have any that match up so I'll have to look for some. Thank you!!
No problem good luck
why does RAM with higher MHz has high (which is slower) cas latency ?
example: 5000MHz C18 vs 2400MHz C14
I'm referring to the variation dropdown option in link here: [https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK32GX4M2D3600C18](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK32GX4M2D3600C18)
Bad example. If you calculate the resulting ns each, 5000CL18 would be a lot better than 2400CL14.
The DRAM chips need time in order to properly read and process the data, that part is still somewhat analog internally.
Overclockers can spend hours trying to manually dial in the best settings for RAM timings. See /r/overclocking reddit.
what does ns mean? how do u calculate?
Because the dram chips have their limits. Pushing freq up requires something to give elsewhere. Like 3200 cl16 and 3600 cl18 often use the same chips: speed up, latency up. 3600 cl16 (and up) is better binned or different chips.
is it possible to fine tune cl in 3600 cl18 to become cl16? i mean by adjusting its memory timing (overclocking stuff)
Yeah, with a bit more voltage, it's likely
Basically it makes it more stable but because of the higher transfer rate it increases performance even if the end latency remains the same.
What 2nd m2 SSD should I buy just to store files? I already have a SN750.
If you're in the UK, the P2 has just gone to £57 for the 1TB @ CCL. A good option.
Honestly whatever is just a good price. Doesn't really matter the type unless in a laptop where power efficiency matters.
SN550, Crucial P2, intel 665p to name a few.
The sn550 is an awesome option, or a 2.5" ssd
Is it safe to use 70% isopropyl alcohol wipe pads to clean a motherboard’s VRM? I had to use it to clean off blood and I waited about 4 minutes for it to dry. I was worried about static from the pad or the alcohol content could cause issues.
I use these pads all the time to clean PCBs no problem. Both propanol and water evaporate really quickly at medical concentration.
> Is it safe to use 70% isopropyl alcohol wipe pads to clean a motherboard’s VRM?
Yep. Well, safe to clean the heatsinks. If you're cleaning the actual components they're cooling I'd wait a little longer for it to dry.
To be more specific, it was the metal part of the motherboards IO ports but not specifically in them. The pad probably slightly touched the heat sink, however the main area of application seemed dry after touching it with my finger. I waited an extra 2 mins with the power unplugged before I booted, so about 6 or more mins. There could’ve been a possible slight touch or so that was in contact with the actual board part of the mobo.
Wouldn't worry about it, sounds like it should've been totally dry.
about how much should someone be spending to build a decent desktop pc with no specific purpose in mind(not necessarily hardcore maxgraphics competitive gaming but would be nice if it could handle some games, not necessarily for design but, etc)?
i just figure for what i'd spend on a decent costco laptop or whatever i'd like to try to assemble something a bit better as a desktop, but is that actually worth attempting?
set a price ceiling for the gpu, figure out how much ur willing to pay over msrp as well for new or older parts. assuming you got the Founder's Edition at Best Buy or Microcenter or something here's the msrps. the market is f'ed rn tho so that requires at least a week of deal hunting looking for drop dates, discord or twitter or youtube stream watching, etc. in the best case scenario. Worst case, you take a year to find one of them
GPU -|- MSRP |
RTX 3060 -|- $329 |
RTX 3060 Ti FE -|- $399 |
3060 Ti = 2080 Super
3060 = idk
2060 can be got for $250 at evga b stock sales
1660 supe is p pop
Anything around 700-800 should be able to handle whatever you want to play or do. But this isn't realistic right now, because of the shortage.
But if you just want to play something like CSGO or Valorant, a 3200g or 3400g system would be completely fine also.
1. I want to jump into performant (60fps+) 4k gaming for Battlefield 2042 this fall. I have an RTX 2060, but I understand that 4k gaming with it will take me down to 30fps. Should I upgrade to the 3060 or 3080 if I can afford one?
2. I have an AOC Q27G1WG4 monitor right now. If I'm dropping the cash on a better 4k card, should I go ahead and upgrade the monitor as well?
A 3060 is only 2060super performance. A 3080 is really what you should be aiming for for 4k gaming
3060 won't be an upgrade, 3080 might be. Wait for 2042 benchmarks to come out, then decide your upgrade.
Upgrade the monitor if you want, aren't you wanting to go 4k anyway?
Yes, I am wanting to go 4k. I guess my question about the monitor is more about timing. Now or hold off until something better comes?
Also, what's your reasoning about the 3060 not being an upgrade? Could you provide specifics in this 4k context?
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
The 3060 is barely an upgrade from the 2060, it's not worth it.
Wait until a monitor deal comes up.
Why you goin 4k? Just the crispness?
My pc crashes(BSOD) when i enable Xmp
Cpu: Ryzen 5 2600
Mobo:Gigabyte b450 d3sh v2
Ram:Oloy 16gb dd4
The memory controller on Ryzen 2000 isn't great. Try turning on xmp, then turning down the freq manually
I just have it on default xmp i think
> Ram:Oloy 16gb dd4
Ok but you still haven't told us anything about the speed.
3000Mhz is about top of the comfort zone for Zen+, I had a 3200Mhz Ram kit that simply wouldn't boot on a 2700X.
Its in 3600mhz in bios right now.
That's not gonna work on ZEn+. Set the Ram speed to 3000MHz and try again. You can leave the rest of the XMP settings in tact.
I will try thanks
Nope, just turn on xmp
Because it's technically overclocking. Faster than 3200 is outside of official spec
It's not Intel or AMD. It's set by a different company, it's called a jedec spec
Correct. Well technically it has a profile that overclocks it. They just print that profile on the box and advertisers it that way
They kind of do by specifying that pcie gen 4 nvme ssds are supported, that's kinda saying what ssd speeds are supported. There's also a lot of interaction between the cpu and ram, the memory controller is on the cpu
DDR5 and PCIe 5.0, but yes.
H670 and lower will be DDR4 and PCIe 4.0.
mind linking a source on that? I'm interested
it feels like just last year that we started getting pcie 4.0 devices
Uh, yes, PCIe is still cross-compatible from 2.0 and forward.
Pcie is backwards compatible. So you could use a pcie 2.0 device if you wanted to
In theory you should be able to use a 5.0 device in a 2.0 slot too.
So I'm building my PC today but forgot to order an anti-static bracelet. Was reading about touching something metal that's plugged-in as a way to ground yourself.
I have a Huawei Matebook X Pro laptop which is metal. If I touch that while it's plugged into the wall, will that ground me?
Sorry for the possibly dumb question. I'm shockingly ignorant when it comes to electronics, pun intended.
Do you live somewhere humid? If yes, then you don't really have much to worry about.
Just don't put socks on and go sliding around on carpet while you're building and you'll be fine. Not saying not to worry about it at all but there's plenty of people that build on their beds on carpet while jogging around the house on carpet in wool socks and don't seem to have issues.
Try downloading the driver from gigabytes website. By whatever means necessary haha
Hi folks, need help picking out of these 3 cases,
1) Coolermaster Masterbox MB520
2)Phanteks Eclipse P400 Air Black D-RGB
3)Cooler Master MasterBox TD500 ARGB Mesh Black
Which of these 3 would you recommend, theyre all basically the same price so really airflow is the biggest thing for me, thank you
gamer's nexus has the p400a slightly ahead on temps at stock compared to the td500. Didn't compare against the mb520 but just based off the design I'm assuming the p400 and td500 would run cooler. Phanteks cases are generally pretty easy to build in as well (no personal experience with CM cases)
I want your opinion on the AMD 5600XT GPU.
Because of GPUs prices being very high, I have been looking for an older card with good performance at 1080p resolution.
A friend of mine is selling his for a decent price, but I only ever had Nvidia cards.
Thanks in advance for your insight.
https://youtu.be/a615W-cNeMw it's alright
Don't know if thats the right subreddit to ask but whats a chair you would recommend? Or a gaming chair? I know many recommend Herman Miller but its too expensive and not available here in Russia. I'm crurently using DX Racer which I like to be honest but I'll be moving and may leave this chair here
I doubt you're going to get many recommendations for a gaming specific chair. I don't have personal experience with any of them but I do see secret lab recommended more often for people that just have to have a gaming specific one. That said, even if you can't find herman miller I'd still look into ergo office chairs in general. I've got a bucket style seat in my car and I have no idea why people pay money to sit in anything remotely similar at their desk, that shit has absolutely destroyed my spine and hips in the 10 years I've spent driving it. I've got a used aeron that got rid of a lot of pain in just a couple days. Looking it up right now it seems like steelcase is available in russia, they're generally regarded as a competitor to herman millar, a steelcase leap might be worth looking at. I don't know how it works in russia but in the US and many other countries you can find very lightly used/refurbished office chairs at stores that specialize in buying up furniture from offices closing down. I got a my aeron used and I could have easily confused it for brand new, even if something broke on it you can find just about every individual part, same thing with steelcase.
Thanks for the detailed answer
i need to upgrade my cpu and gpu and my current budget is 600 euros (i dont want to pay much)
i know they are expensive right now but what would be the best i could get with that money
Depends entirely on your current CPU and GPU
gtx 750 ti which is 5+ years old and i5 6500 3,2ghz
I would probably look for an 11400f, B560 motherboard, 16gb DDR4 3000/3200mhz ram, and then spend whatever you have left on a graphics card. Hopefully that stuff will only cost about €300
You're probably best getting a used card. With the current prices for a new card you won't get much if it's new.
I think the gtx 980 and 980ti are best value, at least here in the UK. You can easily get a 980ti for £200, and it's slightly better than a 1660 super which cost £350 new. Hopefully you can get one for under €300 used quite easily on eBay or locally.
so i keep the cpu for now and switch it later on?
thanks for the help ill look into getting my hands on a good graphics card
Yeah that's an option. The 6500 while not amazing is not too bad. Getting a better GPU will definitely have the biggest effect for now.
oh i just realized the 11400f is the cpu i thought that was the mainboard my bad
Recently, my computer has been having problems and randomly shutting off. I checked the health of my disk through the run prompt and everything looked good, restarted my computer and everything seemed to be running fine for a while.
Eventually, my computer turned off again, so I decided to flash a new bios. After pressing "M-Flash", the computer restarted, but will now not post, and the CPU error light is on my motherboard. The fans are running at pretty high speeds, so I believe my PSU is still fine, however, I am unsure as to where to go from here.
I am currently running a 3600, 16GB RAM, a 1070 and a corsair 650W gold psu (can dig out the exact model if it matters). I have been using my computer for the last year and a half with no problems until a few days ago, and I do not remember making any big changes since the problems began. I also ran a malawarebytes test, a ccleaner sweeps, and a windows defender check before the PC would not post. I have yet to open up my PC.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try resetting CMOS if you haven't already. I had a similar issue initially trying to install my 5600x into my b550 tomahawk, thought the CPU or mobo was bad but I did bios flashback like 5 times and 10 CMOS resets then it just worked out of the blue. In any case, does your motherboard have bios flashback? This lets you flash a BIOS without actually getting into BIOS (or even having a CPU installed), usually there's a specific USB port you have to use a button you need to press on the rear I/O panel. I'm assuming too that you had the correct file and there was no loss of power during the bios flash attempt.
Pretty sure it's a dead stick of RAM haha, tried resetting the CMOS and it didn't work, so I reseated the CPU incase it somehow got knocked out (even though my PC hasn't moved in a few months), but also didn't work. So I just tried running one stick of RAM and everything posted fine and the CPU light is off on my mobo. Finger's crossed that everything's good now.
[This is my planned PC build without a GPU](https://imgur.com/a/XnDea82) from Webhallen. I'm hoping to find an RTX 3060ti to complete this build, but I'm going to purchase this meanwhile and find a used under $100 GPU to bridge me over.
**Do any of these parts have known issues or better alternatives? Should I substitute any of these for something cheaper?**
More info if needed:
I don't care about pixel count or FPS as long as *things look nice and run without stutters* (or issues in VR if I bought a headset in the future). I want to be able to do software engineering projects on this PC, and be able to play more demanding games than I currently can on an old laptop.
Type of games I currently play: Celeste, Hades, Mark of the Ninja Remastered, Islanders, Carto, Mini Motorways, Dandara, Hell is Other Demons, etc.
Demanding games I want to be able to play: The Witcher 3, Mirror's Edge, Ghost Runner, Dark Souls, CrossCode, Shadow of the Tomb Raider, BioShock Remastered, old Tomb Raiders, Dishonored 1/2, Beat Saber, Half-Life Alyx, etc.
[Updated PC list](https://imgur.com/a/IcCx5Gw)
huh, I read somewhere that the sn550 (I think on tom's hardware) is not suitable for a boot drive because of shallow something. if what you're saying is true, I'll save so much money since WD is also vertically integrated and can be trusted as much as samsung's NVMe drives.
I went with this board because it was recommended as the "value for the money" kinda thing and the ASRock had some pretty negative reviews. I did compare the board to a cheaper option from Gigabyte but the comparison website also showed the ROG board to be "Better all around" for an around $30 difference so I went with the ROG.
Also, when I didn't get responses here, I posted on the simple question thread of another subreddit and someone convinced me to switch out my CPU for a 5600x, my RAM for a 2x16 3600CL16 kit (both actually cheaper, just no RGB & from a different major Swedish website), and my power supply for a Corsair RM650 80+Gold fully modular for like just a little bit more.
>assuming you'll use the additional cores
Could you elaborate a bit? I'm already convinced with the less cores option (5600x) but I've been burned by choosing a duo-core laptop instead of a quad-core in 2015 & don't ever want to make that same mistake again haha.
Honestly if I could lower the price of this build enough, maybe I could upgrade the PSU to an RM750 & search for a 3070 instead. I don't need a 3070 but it feels like I'm likelier to find one than a 3060ti.
Thank you, that was such a thoughtful comment, and it made me realise I've been looking at "this vs. that" too much that I've lost track of just getting what would work for my needs at a best value I can. you gave me a lot to think about. I'm probably going to switch the NVMe to a WD SN550 or SN750 and the board (though I'm still unsure about the ASRock board).
How much slower would it be to run 4x 8gb ram sticks vs 2x 16 gb sticks? Motherboard is ASUS x570 TUF gaming pro.
No noticeable difference assuming they have the same specs
If the 16GB sticks are dual-rank, they will perform exactly identically at the same clock and timings.
If they're not dual-rank...the difference is still not something you would even notice in practical terms.
Depends on the specs of the sticks themselves, if they're both for example 3600MHz CL16 then they will give you practically the same performance. If you're planning on getting really fast memory then two sticks is usually easier to get running stable than four, though.
If I'm starting to buy new parts to do a new build, is there a certain order of operations for buying parts? For example say I get a Ryzen/Intel CPU, then I need to buy a compatible mobo accordingly, then I buy a case and RAM based on that, etc
Usually people decide on AMD or Intel. Then from there decide on your motherboard chipset (b550 vs x570 for example), then I guess the case since it wouldn't make sense to buy an itx case before you buy an atx motherboard that won't fit. then the rest you can just kind of go in whatever order as you find sales. use pcpartpicker to make a parts list and you can track prices and what not from there as well as check compatibility for most things.
What PC components (if any) are cheaper than normal right now? Looking to build a high-end PC on a budget over time.
I guess power supplies have gone back to reasonable levels but that's kind of about it short of stuff that doesn't really fluctuate to begin with (keyboards, mice, headsets, etc).
Wondering if anyone can offer some advice.
Yesterday my PC slowed down suddenly. I restarted the computer and now it hangs in the spinning logo screen (before sign in)
I have an SSD as the boot disk and an HDD for storage and files.
Does anyone know where I can start looking or offer some advice on what hardware may be causing this problem? It's so weird that it happens so randomly when i never had a problem before. Computer is 2years old. custom built.
Thank you for the help!
Make a Windows install USB and boot off that. I believe it has a 'repair' option.
Thanks for your reply. I took apart the computer piece by piece.
Pieced it back together and now everything is working again... Ran benchmarks on all my disks and they're coming back as strong as when i first bought them..
This is so weird and scary at the same time cause now I don't know what caused the issue in the first place. I just know something is gonna happen again soon..
But I appreciate your advice nonetheless!
My WiFi usb seems to have died, checked internet connection on other items, restarted a few times just in case, tried the usb on a laptop and it doesn't seem to work. It was a no-name brand piece of crap so I am looking to replace it. I prefer usb connected WiFi cards as I can get paranoid and appreciate the ease of disconnection.
Any tips or recommendations would be appreciated, it doesnt have to be usb just prefer it
Yeah I prefer USB as well. I find TP-link is best for peace of mind, but sorting by best amazon reviews will usually serve you well. Anything with a half decent antenna on it and isn't the size of your thumbnail (for cooling purposes) I have found reliable
Ill look into those thanks! Mine is like a Panda wireless? Bought it years ago for a netbook and just chose not to buy a nicer one when I built my desktop
Hey, I'm looking to build a dedicated streaming pc that can stream 1080p 60fps no issues. I won't be using the pc for anything other than streaming. I have another pc that I will be gaming on. I want to spend the least amount of money possible to build the pc to do just streaming. I already have a capture card I'm just not sure what the minimum required specs for this machine would be. Thanks in advance.
I would do a 5600G or 5700G so you dont need to buy a graphics card
Edit: Nevermind, stupid question I guess. I figured it out and was too obsessed with square and rounded pins matching up. Once I figured out that rounded pins can go in square holes all is good.
I am trying to re-use a silverstone 750 w silver PSU with modular cables with a new MSI pro carbon max motherboard which requires an 8 pin ATX 12 V connection. The only cables I have with the PSU are 8 pin to 4=4 pin which don't fit into the 8 pin socket on the motherboard. Am I screwed? Do I have to buy a new PSU or is there an after market modular cable that will work? Thanks.
Might be a dumb question:
Does it matter which direction I plug in the front panel usb 3.1 cable into the motherboard header?
Just did a case transplant and it's the first one I bought that has the front panel type c port.
The cable kept on popping out so I thought I was doing something wrong.
Nope. USB-C doesn't care which way you plug it in.
That extends to the header on the board too?
Thanks! It kept on popping out so I thought I was doing something wrong.
Hi quick question, kinda new to this so sorry if it's dumb. I have a tomahawk x570 and a ryzen 5800x, I know that some tomahawk x570s bios needs to be updated to be used with the ryzen 5000 chips.
On my box there's a sticker that says "AMD RYZEN 5000 desktop ready", does that mean the mobo is already updated and I don't need to flash it?
Yeah. My own motherboard B550M Mortar came with the same sticker, and everything worked fine, so should be the same.
Awesome thank you!
I currently have a Ryzen 5600X in my build. Built my rig around 2-3 months ago. I've used the stock cooler since then, and I want to upgrade my cooler. I have currently no plans of overclocking, but I just don't like seeing my temps be around 80-95 degrees.
Can I get recommendations on an air cooler. Nothing too extreme like an NH-D15 or something like that, just something that is better (and quieter) than the stock wraith stealth cooler.
NZXT Kraken X53 is a nice option
yeah, out of my price range, and im def not getting no water cooler.
Ah shit, my bad. I have be quiet pure rock 2 and its great, I highly recommend it
Take a look at the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B
Is it good for the price?
I'm in the UK, so honestly not sure what else you may have access to over there. What price can you get it for? The Dark Rock 4 (not Pro) is another good option.
In Denmark, the Scythe Mugen costs around £42, and the Dark Rock 4 costs around £54. I know that the Hyper 212 Black Edition costs like 30 quid tho.
Mugen will be much quieter than the 212, but the 212 will probably still be quieter than the stock cooler you have now, so depends how close to silent you want to get. £42 is a good price, cheapest here is £43.99. I'm upgrading to a 5600X and I'll be using the Mugen
i've just only now realized that my motherboard came with m.2 heatsink. It's x570 giabyte aorus elite.
I have 2 mp510 corsair 3.0 drives. Both came without any heatsinks. My friend got a spare heatsink from mp610 he could give me and I could use the motherboard heatsink for another drive.
Is there any point doing that? Also, do I need to take off the sticker off the m.2 ssd before attaching heatsink?
Will storing games on a different SSD than the OS be bad for performance ? Does it matter ?
> Will storing games on a different SSD than the OS be bad for performance ? Does it matter ?
What is the best way to search for cases? Some cases that are recommended in various articles don't show up PCPartPicker so now I'm not confident that I can do an exhaustive search using PCPP.
If it helps, case selection isn't a huge deal beyond personal preference and having what you want inside it.
Unless building SFF of course, then case is kind of central to the build
Thanks. After hours of research today I decided I'll just pick a few that I like and then look at reviews and choose the best one.
sometimes pcpp doesnt have all the colors, but generally it's pretty good. make sure compatibility filter is off. otherwise your cooler might stop some cases from showing up
I double-checked by typing in part of the case names into the search bar without any filters and they still don't show up :/
That's too bad. Is it a popular brand? Because they don't have everything in the database. You can add parts manually too if you know what you're looking for
Yeah, a lot of the cases I'm reading about are the highest-rated cases from 2020 and 2021 from a few different sites (Gamers Nexus, Tom's, a few others). Maybe there's just too many cases out there and PCPP just hasn't been able to profile them all.
what would be the best mobo and intel chip for a 2070 super?
well, probably a 11900k with some expensive z590 board, eg the Aorus Xtreme Waterforce
what's your budget?
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Helo everyone, I've been doing some research on what to buy for my first pc build ever and I need some help figuring out which SSD/motherboard to buy.
I am planning on getting an RTX 3080 and 5900x.
Right now, MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI is on sale for $84, is it good enough? Or should I wait a little longer and maybe get Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE / MSI B550-A PRO?
I don't think I'll be overclocking the CPU, it doesn't seem to be worth it to me.
And about the SSD, is there anything I should look for specifically? I plan to get a 1 or 2tb one for boot + games and edit 1-2 videos a week.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Yes, the b550m pro-vdh is enough for the 5900X. If you want to save the money, that's a perfectly acceptable option https://youtu.be/wuPH9pCCK-E
Thanks for your answer! I just watched the video you linked and the one with the B550-A pro and the numbers are significantly better for the B550-A pro (at least on the 3950x and 3950x OC tests). Since both boards passed all tests, I am wondering if this number difference has any impact at all in my use case.
Yeah, the A-Pro is a great board, and the pro-vdh is a good board. It's totally up to you lol
while the 5900x will work in the b550 PRO-VDH WiFi, I wouldn't use such a low end board for such and expensive CPU (and GPU)
something like the b550-a pro would be more fitting, and I personally wouldn't go any lower than that
about SSDs, you have the option to either go M.2 or 2,5"
M.2 SSDs are available in both NVMe (faster on paper, it uses PCIe lanes directly) and SATA (what normal 2,5" SSDs use, it's cheaper but slower than NVMe)
I would probably recommend getting a ~500gb NVMe SSD as a boot drive and programs, and a 1-2tb 2,5" SSD for games and such - but that's totally up to you, how much space you need and how much you wanna spend
as you seem to be building a fairly high end build, and you don't seem to need a shit ton of storage, just SSDs (so no HDDs) should be the way to go
Any specific reason as to why go for a higher end board? Would it be because of the vrm?
Is there any advantage in getting separate SSDs for boot and games or would it be fine to just get a higher storage SSD NVMe? And should I worry about DRAM or if it's TLC or something?
Thanks for your answer!
it's not one reason, but just a bunch of smaller ones: connectivity, VRMs, build quality, overclocking headroom if you ever decided to try it out
about SSDs: no advantage per se, but I personally prefer having split up disks - also, it would be cheaper if you just have a smaller sized NVMe
as for which SSD you should buy, look up reviews and "tier" lists, such as these:
also, u/NewMaxx pinned post
I am wondering if I have enough fans on my build.
Specifications as follows:
•i5 11600k CPU
•Cooler Master Hyper 212 Turbo ARGB CPU Cooler
•Asus ROG Strix B560-A WIFI ATX Motherboard
•Galax GEForceGTX1650 Super GPU
•Corsair Vengence 32gb RAM 3600mhz
•1TB NVME M.2 Western Digital SSD
•2TB Seagate Baracuda SATA HDD
•Corsair CXM650 Power Supply
•Asus DRW-24D5MT 24x DVD Writer
•Fractal Design Focus G Black Case
I have 2x Cooler Master SickleFlow 120mm front mounted for intake, And 1x Cooler Master SickleFlow 120mm on the rear as exhaust. These are rated 62CFM. Should I put another 120mm on the top as exhaust too?
Thankyou. I only intend to record solo vocals with basic mixing and mastering, Only gaming would be the Forza Horizon 5 from time to time on standard settings. Don't know how or intend to overclock
if you have the fan on hand, yea why not put it in
otherwise, no need to, this will suffice
3 is fine, you can add as many as you want tho
Regarding USB ports built into a case, what makes them 2.0 vs 3.0 etc? Is it the wires connecting the port to the motherboard or the connection point at the motherboard? I am re-using an older case which has two front mounted "USB 2.0" according to the case specs.
3.0 uses twice as many wires, and a different header design because of it.
It's the weakest link in the cain. If the device, port, cable, or motherboard header is 2.0 then everything will work at 2.0 speeds. However 3.0 ports on cases use a different motherboard connector than 2.0 so you can't even plug it into a 2.0 motherboard header without an adapter.
How do you determine when you need a new build vs upgrading parts? Specifically when you're looking to improve performance. I'm new to this and personally I like the idea of upgrading over time but I hear a lot of people talk about new builds often enough that I'd like to know more about the thought process.
Don't upgrade unless you have a real performance issue you're trying to fix.
GPU is the main driver of game performance, and also the easiest to upgrade. For gaming, this is likely what you upgrade.
By the time most people need a CPU upgrade (unless they started with a very low end model), you'll need a new motherboard anyways due to socket changes or other incompatibility.
RAM usually doesn't need to be upgraded unless you don't have enough, though if you're buying a new motherboard it's possible you'll need new RAM anyways (eg if old board was DDR4 and new board is DDR5).
Power supply unless it has problems should only be replaced if you need more power, or it's much older than warranty.
Case is entirely up to you, they don't really go out of date.
Storage is up to you. SSDs last awhile these days.