/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY question, get an answer (August 05, 2021)
By - AutoModerator
Can i charge my wireless keyboard overnight using a powerbrick?
Best switch available for the ducky one two sf? (Gaming and typing, not clicky)
What plate makes switches sound the “poppiest”?
What plate makes switches sound the thocciest?
Hi! Anyone used silent box pinks from kailh? How do they feel? Are they quiet? Thanks!
see [review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBv_3KIbHfA) and [review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q36hgvXTwic) and [review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zq3q3Zn7A7o)
Thanks, thanks and thanks!
Is there a reason why laptops put Fn as the 2nd left-most key on the bottom row, while external keyboards instead put it two to the right of the spacebar?
Left Fn seems to make far more sense to me, given that many people prefer hitting the bottom left for Shift, Ctrl, and Alt already and Fn is in a similar category to those keys.
While I suspect this is somehow about tradition, I can totally understand the appeal. I prefer the normal layout though, simply because it's already hardwired to my brain.
Does anyone know where I could get a purple/lime green keycaps set (similar to the Purple and Green set by yourcustomkeys), but with Korean/English printed on it?
if u dont find any conventional sets wasd keyboards custom service is always an option
Lots of people say U4T is end game for tactile switches and I've been using them for a month and completely agree(so far) what is the general consensus for an end game linear switch? (Have tried tealios, tangerines, and banana splits)
Have you tried Alpacas or Water Kings?
I’ve only tried Gateron black inks as far as high quality li ears go, and I really like them. Really smooth, heavy and have a great sound profile.
I’m looking for a 60% that is 50$ or under does anyone have any recommendations? Preferably on Amazon.
I’m no expert on boards but I bought the DREVO Calibur V2 TE last night for £65 (sorry not sure if available in America) heard mixed reviews mainly on durability but looking forward to trying it out
Is it possible to get someone to make a custom artisan keycap? I really want a keycap based on my favorite TV show but I haven't found any (and I don't think anyone's made any at all). If you'd like to know, the TV show in specific is called Kamen Rider, and I'm a huge fan of it, and I'd love to own an artisan keycap based on some of the "riders", but I haven't been able to find one for sale.
I'd say possible, but for a price. I'd suggest asking around on r/mechmarket
Need Help on mechanical Keyboard Akko 3068 Ocean Deep Blue Error
so i was using this keyboard for like 5-7 Months and it works great but eventually when i was playing FPS game the q key sends random jiberish like :
\[poi qywertu o o
where it somehow clicked other keys but i only clicked q key , can anybody help ?
Can i use plate-mounted stabs on a screw-in stab kb? The kit supports screw in stabs but i have an extra plate stabs lying around i was wondering if i could just use it
Pretty sure the stab cutouts are different, so no
Yea, thanks. I did look at the plate cutouts and there are some notches needed.
Well my ~~cheap~~ free (got it from the trash), decades old membrane is finally dying. The spacebar hates me (yes I've checked there's nothing in it). I could just get another one, they're extremely common (its a dell L100). But I should really consider investing in a half-decent board.
Any suggestions for budget newbie boards? I would prefer a 100% since I do use my numpad. But an 80% or even 65% wouldn't be bad either. I'm a part of this reddit more-so for the artisan keycap side of things and while the Noob Guide is helpful, I'm wondering if anyone else who doesn't mind the L100 has any recommendations.
Don't need backlighting or RGB, wireless is preferred but not a dealbreaker, I prefer less weight needed for pressing, and I'm not a fan of super loud keebs.
Edit: also I love bright colors especially teal/purple. But again, this is not a dealbreaker. I'm just looking for something functional.
Thank you for your time.
Edit: Fantastic news, my spacebar decided to work again so I've got a bit more time!
What's your budget? For under 100usd, you can get some great value offerings from keychron (K4), which are wireless, 96% (basically 100% without some of the useless keys, for example pause and inser). You can choose which switch suits you best
If you’re fine with building your keyboard, the the NK 65 entry is pretty good. You have to watch the store like a hawk though, it runs out of stock very quickly.
For builds under 200, you could do something like the DZ60 combined with a plate and case from KBDfans, and some mediocre keycaps (nothing GMK). Some Durock stabilizers should work for budget but if not, there’s probably a cheaper option. You’d have to go with a budget switch. But, as for what switch to choose, the best advice I could give would be to get a switch tester, find which type you prefer, then look for some highly rated cheaper options in reviews and the sort. A linear example would be gateron yellows.
However if you do a build, you will have to get supplies for it, such as soldering equipment. And if you want to mod, you’ll have to get at least lube, and if you don’t have it, a small brush and flush cutters.
If this sounds like a bit much, you could go with a prebuilt. For that I recommend Ducky. Personally I entered with a prebuilt from Ducky, and then modded the shit out of it. Definitely happy with it. Not as good out the box as a custom, but it gets you closer than membrane.
Last piece of advice: take it slowly. Make sure that you’re not going in and then realizing you messed up, because you WILL think, “Well, maybe if I mod it this way, or do this…” which leads to, “This isn’t the best material/quality, I want to buy a different [x].” And then you’ve bought too much, and have too many things you didn’t actually end up needing.
Thanks so much for the detailed advice! I plan to go for a prebuilt on this board since I don't have the time to build one right now and still have some other hobby projects I need to finish. I will definitely keep this saved for later if I decide to build a custom.
is it possible to go with ISO keyboard layout without adding an extra 1U key at the left shift key? (ISO layout but with ANSI left shift size)
If your PCB supports it, sure.
Thinking about getting some Boba U4T clear tops but I found anyone doing a soundtest for them. Only the opaque ones. Do the clear tops change the sound profile *too much* or is it not that noticeable of a difference??
I asked this exact question on a different forum earlier! And the answer I got was "The standard U4T already has an SMD slot - so why don't you just use them?" And I kinda agreed so I dropped it. You can contact Gazzew directly on Discord apparently. Maybe try that?
So I’m modding my streak 65 I need help on lubing those kalih choc v2 plus I tried using films on them but the film doesn’t sit right does anyone have a solution? I used films with that bottom box so maybe one that’s just square?
Does clear ABS eventually shine? I'm struggling to imagine what that would even look like, being transparent.
All abs shines. I imagine it would be "shimmery"
I'm looking for a set of keycaps that are pretty thick, and give me that nice "thocky" sound. Just want advice on what to look for to get that deep thock. Recommendations on some specific sets is also great (I have no preference for profile, and have standard cherry mx switches).
One word: wood.
Really doesn't get thockier than that.
If you're talking loud power-thock: I have SA Violets (PBT), Akko ASA Profile (any), KBDfans OSA (ABS) that all provide that kinda sound with the right switch under them.
If you're talking Barry White Buttery-thock: Matt3o MT3 or any high quality PBT OEM cap will get you there.
I'm sure there's a million variations - they're just the ones I've laid hands on.
Sound profile is created by all the components in the build, not just keycaps.
If you are looking for thicker keycaps: gmk, drops mt3, sa, kat. Most cheaper caps cut the cost of production by making the cap thinner.
I know, I've got the build I like, I just have 2 pairs of keycaps. One looks nice but makes the pitch of my board significantly higher. The other looks bad but sounds deep and full. Just trying to know what to look for so I can buy some caps that check both boxes.
HI, I want to know if I can change the housing and everything inside the switch, but keeping the part of the switch with the contacts, cause I bought a Redragon Kumara and it's a hotswap keyboard, but I can only change the switches for others of the same brand, whatever they are reds, browns, violets etc, if there is no problem changing the inside and keeping the bottom part, I could change the inside for Holy Panda or roselios, any of those, but I don't want to ruin both and run out of switches, thank you 🙌🏻❤️
Why skimp out? Gazzew makes some highly rated switches and they are otemu. Akko switches are affordable and seem to have pretty awesome performance, also otemu
Good to know 👌🏻👌🏻 thanks mate
I've just finished a new PC build and I'm looking for a decent kb to top it off so could any of the experts recommend a good TKL one? I live in Canada and my budget is 150CAD, maybe a bit more. I use it mainly for gaming but also work typing as well. RGB would be nice but not necesarry. Bare minimum is backlighting.
I'm actually quite liking the idea of a black frame with a mix of black and white keycaps so that would be nice too! Much appreciated
Varmillo is a good brand for pre-builts and this one is white to black gradient https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=289
man that color split is clean
if i have a tofu65 brass weight and i want to cerakote it and laser engrave it, which should i do first? can you cerakote over engraved weights? and if you choose to cerakote first then engrave after, the engraving will be in gold right? (from the underlying brass metal)
My GMMK Pro came with overlubed stabs, so they kind of stick a bit. Will this ease up over time as I use the keys? Or do I have to intervene? Will it require me to disassemble the board to get the stabs out?
They won't ease up anytime soon. You'll have to open up the board to take them out
Does anyone know of any TKL kits that support alps?
Currently the only ones I know of are the ones that use hineybush's fr4 alps plates
Pretty green here and looking to get a starter keeb (only ever had razer boards) but everything of medium-high quality looks like its either out of stock or won't be shipping until like november... Where can I find medium-high tier pre-built boards that aren't out of stock? Price isn't toooo much of an issue for me
Here for the recs
[Mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://Mechanicalkeyboards.com) carries a variety of in-stock Leopold keyboards, which I would recommend for their build quality. The MX compatible boards run around US$120, just pick your preferred size, colorway, and switches. (Of course, like any in-stock items, some combinations of those features might be out of stock, thank the global pandemic for that.)
So I cleaned my mechanical keyboard with Disinfectant Wipes and my E, R and Enter sometimes don't work. How do I fix it? Every button works just these don't work properly.
What sort of board is it? Is it hotswap? Was it plugged in when you cleaned it? Did you plug it back in for use immediately after cleaning?
I don't know if is it hotswap or not, the keyboard is Modecom Volcano Gaming Hammer and it was plugged when I was cleaning it but my PC was off.
Okay, that's cool. If you're not sure it likely isn't hotswap. Same advice though. Get the PCB out, make sure it's dry. Then see how it goes.
Eh, sorry I really don't know what is PCB and how to get it out can you please help me?
Sure - unclip the plastic case around your keyboard. Remove any screws and pull it apart. The giant soldered circuit board that takes up the entire inside is your PCB (Printed Circuit Board). If it's wet when you use it - say from disinfectant - signals probably arc across circuits and make crazy shit happen. Take it out. Clean anything that looks dirty. Let it dry. Put it back together and try again.
Well I need to pull out my switches to see PCB is that alright?
No, you won't need to pull the switches out. You only need to look at the underside of it where they are soldered in. I had a look at your board. I don't know but I can take a guess. Looks like you have a case plate (where the case is also the mounting plate for the switches). So it's going to have a bunch of screws in it holding it together. So in all likelihood you'll need to pull all the keycaps off and find out where the screws are and remove them. Same on the bottom of the keyboard. Flip it over and find the screws. After that, just pull it apart like anything you'd pull apart after you've unscrewed it (if it won't come apart, you've likely missed one or two - they hide them under the rubber feet pads sometimes, even under stickers). Once it's apart lift the PCB out (you don't have dedicated multi-media buttons so it should just be one large PCB - but be careful as the power will be connected to the case somewhere - you need to disconnect that so you don't damage it). And that's it. Check it. If it looks dirty or had stains clean them off with some 90%+ alcohol (not disinfectant wipes :)). Then let it all dry for a day.
When you're putting it back together plug it back into the case without reassembling it first and check if your problem is fixed. If the keys work - gravy. If they don't. Take a picture of the offending switches on the back of the PCB where they are soldered (and the surrounding area) and post them on imgur and reply here with a link. I'll take a look and see if I can see anything that might be suspicious.
Thank you so much dude. Everything works. :)
That's awesome news, man! I'm glad it's all worked out for you.
I'm considering purchasing a mechanical keyboard, but when I attempt to type on them, I often press the keys around the key I'm trying to press, leading to a bunch of typos. Is this something that usually happens when a person first tries a mechanical keyboard or is it just not for me? Will it go away after practice?
Experiment with different keycap profiles, switch actuation force, and switch actuation distance. It's very possible you've just been using keys that are way too sensitive for you.
different keycaps profile, kb layout, case high do this as well. just a matter if getting used to
You're not the only one. If you often use laptop keyboard or membrane keyboard, the spacing/layout are often non-standardized, which make it hard to develop muscle memory. It will go away.
I like having tactiles on alphas and linears on mods. I just ordered Boba U4T for a new build, any suggestions for linears that pair well with those? Similar spring weight and sound profile. I know Gazzew is making some linears but they're not out yet. Thanks
Pretty sure can already get the linear stem from Gazzew.
I'm not understanding why people here prefer metal wire keypullers over plastic pinching ones. I keep hearing that the plastic ones can cause scratches, but in my tests I have ONLY seen permanent damage caused by the metal ones. The plastic ones sometimes leave a bit of residue on the keys, but nothing that can't be easily wiped off with a bit of water or alcohol (note: don't use alcohol on ABS).
So, can anyone explain this to me? The results of my tests seemed pretty conclusive.
I can't. But I can tell you why I like the metal ones better (1) they pull evenly on caps bigger than 1u (2) there are some cap sets that really want to stay on there and the plastic pullers slip up the sides over and over again - and yeah scratch them - the metal pullers never slip this way (3) the plastic pullers scratch down the sides of the caps on either side of the one you're pulling - the metal pullers slip under only the one you want (4) metal is manly and awesome RAAAAARRRRRR!!! - plastic makes Sir David Attenborough sad.... and kills whales! Who.... must eat the pullers.... or something....
Hey there. I’m waiting for my KBD67 lite and ePBT Origami keycaps to arrive and I’ve been looking around for a nice coiled cable. Any recommendations on what colour and where to get one? Thank
[MechCables.com](https://mechcables.com/) is my personal recommendation since I own quite a few from them.
Color choice is entirely up to you so can't comment on that. You can also buy a kit and make your own cables from ZapCables.
Also, I was having a look at this cable from KBDfans. What do you think?
Should be fine from KBDFans too!
Cool thanks a lot man.
How do non-split ortho keyboards feel in terms of ergonomics? I can definitely see how ortho makes sense on a split board since the columns line up with the fingers, and then the boards themselves are positioned any way you want them to be.
But having a non-split ortho board sounds like I’d have to choose between columnar alignment or wrist comfort, but not really both.
Can anyone share their experience?
Has anyone moved after placing order in GB and before the start of the shipment? How was your experience with changing the address?
Yes. Easy. It's super common, just contact the vendor to go through whatever their process is.
Hello, I just recently bought an AKKO Tokyo World Tour r2 and I am confused as to wether there is a Macro software or not?
Thanks is advance
>Hey guys im looking to sell my gmmk pro on mechmarket and im asking you guys what you would think is a fair price, or what you guys would pay in theory,
There's a mechmarket price check thread. Ask there.
did you comment on [this post?](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/ovg1lm/official_price_check_thread_month_of_august/)
About to pull the trigger on the last bits for my first build tomorrow. Just need to buy the switches.
Im pretty set on ink blacks (looking for a linear switch with a deeper sound profile) but are there any other switches the community generally prefers to ink blacks (that are in stock)?
Price not an issue. Will be lubed with some 205g0 I have waiting :)
i got my tangies about a week and a half ago from ilumkb and my goddd they are deeeeeep (67g) lubed 205g0 and filmed, if you wanna give them a shot i swapped my lubed filmed inks for them out of my tofu
These are what I want but I cant find them in stock from a US distributor :( Seeing these are in stock on this site though I may just grab the ink blacks for the time being and also order these now, then whenever they get here swap em in lol
you wont be disappointed with either of them anyways so its a win win
id say the ink blacks are a great choice if you want that sound. if you're on a budget you can get the gateron cap switches which are very similar in sound and feel but much cheaper.
Not on a budget for this one I want the best of the best switches for my first build. I know its subjective but certain parts of it are objective ya know. If ink blacks are a solid way to go (I think so, that's why I've been leaning towards them) then I'll probably stick to that route. I just lack the knowledge of all the switch types to know if I'm missing something big or not lmao
if you're looking for the best of the best, they're not absolutely perfect, one minor flaw is some spring ping, so you should consider spring swap if you want the absolute best switch. also some batches can be inconsistent with the smoothness on the v2 inks, if you want to be sure youre getting something smooth you might want to get v1 inks.
nk creams also have a nice sound but you need to break them in.
POM Durocks are pretty popular too - Lavenders as well (but have seen others say the upstroke is higher pitched)
I'll have to look more into the Durock switches tonight. I looked at the lavenders a good bit but yeah just a bit too high pitched.
I reckon those Lavenders are not as high pitched as the Tangerines. Lavenders have a smoother more satiny sound than Tangies. The Tangerines sound like a woodpecker at work. It's not really deep - it's more wide. It's a.... bigger sound.... not a deeper one.
Thinking more and more about the Lavenders tonight. Honestly might just go with them over the ink blacks
I have some and they're not a big sound switch. I don't have Ink Blacks but I have Ink Yellows and the Lavenders are a much less clacky switch straight out of the box. If you can't get Lavenders, Original Aspirations share some of the same qualities (but they are the butter kings as far as I'm concerned - sexual to the point of near pornographic).
Lmao a convincing description to say the least. I think I'll end up going with the Lavenders for the initial build (just because I can actually find them in stock) but I will keep an eye out on r/mm for some Original Aspirations if there that good lmao.
HA! Good stuff, man. They're a good choice. And the added bonus - if it matters - is that the Lavender colouring is so subtle that it really doesn't affect any SMD lighting you might have. I put them in a pure white board initially and the lighting was not noticeable dimmed or affected compared to the clear housings I'd been using.
That's actually really nice to know. They'll be going on an NK65ee frost so the LEDs do come in to play there. Not planning on using it extensively but that nice rolling case and underglow RGB will be cool to use every once in awhile. Super hyped for this build. Got some Domikeys WOB SA caps with the CMYK mods coming in for it. Been into keebs since 2014 but never really went past a Ducky with some custom caps lmao
I have both black inks and lavenders (black inks for longer) and although the black inks sounds a tiny bit deeper, I like how lavenders are smoother and has less stem wobble. I’m not saying that black inks are scratchy and wobbly, in fact I haven’t noticed it until I used lavenders for a couple of weeks almost exclusively.
The more I think about it I really do want as smooth as possible. I will be lubing and filming whatever I get, have you done that to either of those 2?
I have lubed and filmed both. Lubing has a more noticeable impact on the black inks as they are scratchier stock while filming almost does nothing on both, aside from changing the sound profile (deeper) as their housing are both pretty tight stock.
In terms of smoothness after lubing, there is a difference but you won’t notice it unless you have the two switches side by side. Same thing for the sound.
Honestly because I planned on lubing and filming whatever I get, I'll probably go with the Lavenders even though you said lubing makes a bigger difference on the ink blacks. If they sound pretty much identical afterwards but I get a bit of a smoother switch I'm down for that.
I can’t disagree with you because I did the same thing.
Hi im trying to find reveiws on the keydous NJ80 board (basically a budget GMMK Pro with a somewhat exploded 75 layout). So far I've only found one. Are there any more. There's not a single one on yt
Hey! I got a Drop Alt with Halo Clears. Actually love it (at least the feel of it), maybe that’s controversial haha, I’m going to lube the stabs but the Halo Clear switches are pingy as heck. I’m considering getting a silent linear switch with a heavier weight but want some recommendations for switches with zero spring ping. The noise drives me crazy. I’ve already tried stupid fish foam, I’ve narrowed it down to the switches. No switches but 1 in, almost no ping. Switches in and even plugging in the cord causes a ringing noise.
you can try lubing the springs to help with the ping
Hey! Are there pros and cons to different keycaps profiles? Or is it only about preferences?
So if I understand correctly, uniform profiles would be cheaper but less ergonomic.
And tall profiles amplifying sound, does it mean like thocky switches would sound even more thocky, but that it is to avoid with silent switches (for silent builds)?
Kinda preference. Cons to SA, mt3, and even KAT are the height and some people find that they need a wrist rest to type comfortably. With dsa, xda, np are since they are uniform some people have a hard time adjusting and have more mistypes. But it really comes down to what is comfortable to you.
However cherry profile with northfacing leds will have some interference with non long stemmed switches (most switches)
It's a standard 60% so most pom plates should work. Just Googled and found this one https://customkbd.com/collections/60-plates/products/universal-60-2-25u-pom-plate
Hi im getting a gk61x barebones and milky yellow switches. Which profile keycaps would make for the best sound signature with this build?
the taller profiles like sa or mt3 are usually deeper and more hollow. shorter ones arent as deep but they sound more full. it also depends on the material, abs is going to be a bit deeper as it is lower density. and thicker keycaps will sound more full.
There is no best sound signature. Different people like different things.
Hey new to the Mechanical keyboard world and looking for some advice. I am pretty much looking for a 65% board with a matching numpad and the option to go wireless. I dont quite want a full board on my desk the whole time but would love to whip out a numpad when excel comes calling at work. The Ducky Varmilo Miya line caught my attention as their themed boards have themed numpads but im not sure if there is anything similar but wireless.
Matching wireless numpad... the only one I can think of would be the gk21s and pairing it with a gk board (61, 64, 84). Wireless is kinda hard to come by in this hobby. And even for quality prebuilts
I went with the Drop SHIFT. Not wireless but 1 cable and compact design. I hope it works out!
Tell me about it. I wonder if it’s worth just going for the wired duckys or a wireless full board. Indecision is real
Hi, I've been thinking about making a Alps keyboard build for a while, and I've managed to find a vendor that was selling NOS Yellow Alps and Green Alps and I was wondering which one I should consider getting.
Looking to get my first mechanical keyboard! I'm brand new to this, coming off of using standard membrane keyboards since forever. Does anyone know a place to test the differences between like linear and tactile switches without having to buy them first? I'm in South Carolina but would be willing to travel a little ways. TIA.
(I know the wiki has recs on where to buy them, but I'm interested in trying the different switch types bc I honestly have no idea where to start.)
You might get lucky and find mechanical keyboard display/demo units at a Best Buy-type store, but that will never be a guarantee.
Switch testers will give you some idea without having to buy a whole board's worth.
Have you tried using a different cable and a different port at all? It's possible only the cable is faulty...
Ah okay well at least that rules out the cable then...
Hi, I'm a noob looking for my second mech kb. My first one is the GIGABYTE Force K83 (cherry red), which I'm fairly happy with for gaming, but I'm looking for a tactile one for typing (99 % of my use currently). I've compiled a list of preferences, but haven't been successful at finding a good match. I would be happy if any of you could give me a recommendation.
* under $100, available in Europe (I'm not paying $50 for shipping)
* Cherry MX brown or similar
* non-"gaming" - just a boring looking keyboard for typing, minimal design
* no backlight
* black, maybe gray or white
* reliable (not a random company on aliexpress)
From the research I've done, I found a lot of Ducky keyboards sold locally that I like the design of, but haven't found the right config for a good price.
Leopold fc750r with browns, is good but its above budget(i found it to be quite expensive in eu). The quality is excellent for a prebuilt and it fits the aesthetic you're looking for.
If you cant find this in stock or its too expensive some other good brands are varmilo, epomaker, royal kludge and ducky but they tend to have a less subtle aesthetic, although you can turn rgb off.
Leopold FC750R is a tad over $100 but it's TKL, comes in your choice of MX switches including brown, is about as "non-gaming" as you can get, has no backlight and comes in muted colors.
[CandyKeys](https://candykeys.com/search/fc750r) and [MyKeyboard.Eu](https://mykeyboard.eu/search/?q=fc750r) sell them in Europe otherwise you can get one off MechanicalKeyboards.com from the USA.
An equivalent would be a Varmilo VA87M or Ducky One 2 TKL. Leopold and Varmilo are pretty much top heap in terms of build quality. Ducky is a very close second.
I've owned all of them buy my vote goes to Leopold. I've had my FC980M for over 3+ years now and the thing is still going strong.
Thank you very much! I'll have to reconsider my budget, but this is otherwise exactly what I'm looking for.
I would definitely try to save up a little bit more. You'll be able to keep and use it for a long time and they're worth every penny IMO.
I’m trying to desolder the switches on my Corsair keyboard but the solder won’t melt, i know this isn’t a problem with the iron because I’ve tried three different ones and even 480c doesn’t melt it. Any advice?
Chances are, either the tip is dirty, in which case, try to sand it a bit. Or the tip is not touching the soldered joint properly, try to melt a tiny bit of (new) solder as if you’re soldering the switch and let that melted solder melt the old solder. Not sure if what I said make sense. If not, let me know.
I would say you're not transferring the heat effectively enough from the iron. Have you got it tinned right? Most important part. You can always drop your own leaded solder over the top of Corsair's factory solder. It will help drive the heat into the solder you're trying to remove.
Got a video? No chance solder isn't melting at that temp, even lead-free.
I'm looking for something that preferably has the function key row so I can access all shortcuts/macros easily. I want to improve ergonomics while doing work and gaming (have hands in a better angle and make typing easier). I don't think I need a numpad, but I'd prefer to have it under a function layer since my keyboard won't have it. I'll figure something out if that's not possible.
Must be compatible with Linux based distributions and Windows. I've been looking into 75% and TKL keyboards. I'm currenly debating on whether I need the arrow keys spaced away from other keys or not. Choices include an assortment of Varmilo and Keychron keyboards alongside the vortex Race 3. Keychron keyboards would be useful for typing on the go, but honestly, bluetooth is not a necessary feature. Also those have ABS keycaps and I'd prefer PBT ones (either dye subbed or doubleshot). I DO NOT need RGB. I'd rather just have white backlighting or none at all for the cleanliness. Color can be black or white. Both would look gorgeus in my setup.
well there you answered your own question. but keychrons mac compatibility is mostly a marketing fluff, theyre all just hid compliant stuff through usb anyway. Source: typing a QMK board atm on arch btw
I have just bought a new keyboard called Blademaster TE with blue switches
I don't like how the keycaps sound so I was wondering what would be the best keycap type I would buy go replace them.
Are you sure it's the keycaps that make the sound you don't like?
sorry I meant the switches
Hi! I heard you can buy a bag of assorted switches to test, and then mount them on a switch board/display, but I’m not sure where to look. Can someone point me in the right direction?
Do you just mean a sampler pack, something like [https://drop.com/buy/assorted-mechanical-mx-switches-sampler-pack](https://drop.com/buy/assorted-mechanical-mx-switches-sampler-pack)?
They're called switch testers, search for that term.
Thanks! Ive tried searching for that before, but they’re always already mounted on a base. I’ve heard that you can get a bag of test switches for cheaper. I’m guessing because you’d need to get the plate separately? I just don’t know where you could get the test switches.
>I’ve heard that you can get a bag of test switches for cheaper
Literally have never seen one.
What is a solid 65% with cherry mx red or gateron red switches under 100$?
I thought about EPOMAKER SKYLOONG SK68/SK68S, is that a solid pick?
Thanks in advance!
its a solid pick, some other good ones are the royal kludge rk68 and womier k66
Hi, I lubed my stabilizers yesterday with dielectric grease and now I'm having some problems with my stabs. Can anybody help me in pm's?
I have the kbd67 lite r2 and I love it
I had a question about the rgb
I've been using VIA to program the board and I figured out how to play with the rgb settings (switch style, switch hue, etc)
One of the settings on the board has an effect where you click a key, and it lights up then fades
However it only does this for one color
Is there a way to make it alternate color every key press? Basically make every key press a new color and it fades out?
Best all around full keyboard with brown switches?
Who is the best manufacture out of these: ducky, varmilo, Leopold?
Leopold FC900R for about 180$ with shipping and tax VS Keychron C2 for about 103$ including shipping and tax?
Second vote for the Leopold and Varmilo. Ducky is also a good choice.
Leopold then varmillo. Keychron only if you can get/want hotswap
How far behind if at all is Varmillo over Leopold?
Close second I my opinion for quality. But they have some switch options that Leopold doesn't. ECv2 switches I think they are called
And Ecv2 switches they are better than Leopolds Mx cherry?
They technically aren't mechanical switches so not sure how they compare. Haven't bought one yet, but there are some reviews on YouTube
I'm looking for a TKL w/ RGB & volume control knob - so far I've found the GMMK Pro 75% and the TM680, are there any others worth looking at? If you have any experience with either I'd been keen to hear your impressions.
Neither of these boards are TKL.
If you are interested in 75% with a knob, there are keychron q1, paragon 75, and evol. All of these will (hopefully) open to GB/pre order soon.
If you are looking for TKL with a knob, my best recommendation is k70 TKL, which is a board no enthusiasts think about getting but if you are looking for a decent, ready to use and in-stock keyboard that comes with warranty and customer support, it’s probably the best option.
>Ah I gotcha, thanks, was being inaccurate - guess I'm looking for 60 - 75% boards
The GMMK Pro is a great board. BUT requires a lot of work to unlock it's full potential. I have worked on two GMMK Pros thus far. To unlock that potential, you must do the following:
+ Replace the stock gaskets with D65 Gaskets. Place everywhere you normally would except the middle and sides.
+ Rama heat shrink mod to stabs or holee mod them OR replace the stabs entirely with Durock or other good set
+ Replace the foam. Stupidfish makes a 3mm and DENSE foam that allows for more flex and still dampens sound. I use the stupidfish plate foam but not the case foam. I use a 1.5mm silicone mat in place of it to allow more flex.
+ Use PC plate or FR4 plate for best sound and flex. I recommend AVXWorks or Hype.Keyboards' Fr4 plates as they have nice flex cuts that make a difference.
+ Tape mod/Pe Foam mod will also help in creating a poppier/thoccier sound.
+ Place O-Rings on the case stand-offs to allow MAX flex. Gives the board around 1mm more to breath. It's so compact and squished stock, which in turn creates complete stiffness.
Doing all of this has made my GMMK Pro end-game worthy TBH. It now has fantastic flex, RGB, and provides great sound. IDK what else I would need at this price point.
If you do consider getting a GMMK Pro and don't want to do these things yourself, I have a build service. Just look at my post history if interested. Thanks!
Great reply, thanks a lot for all the info! Will check out your build service, cheers :)
Keychron C2 vs Ducky One 2 for full size
If budget isn't an issue then get the Ducky. Nicer build quality, caps and more switch choices.
Unless you'd make use of the hotswappability of the Keychron. That's a pretty nice feature to have if you're interested in trying out a lot of different switches.
that's what I was thinking the only thing holding me back is hot swap capability.
What is your question?
which one should I buy? I want a do it all full size for my first mech kb before I do a 60% build
The one that has the features you want at the price you like, just like any other consumer product.
Got mild arthiritis/carpal tunnel from my Think 6.5 V2. The main culprit is higher edge + lower angle of elevation + I was using SA keycaps. Anybody have wrist rest recommendations?
I personally like the glorious wooden ones. Look nice, affordable, and almost always available
Hello there. I'm wanting to venture into my first GB. But I wanted to know if there's a general length of time KBDFans Keyboard GBs run for? For instance. Do I have a couple weeks to make up my mind? Or a couple days.
There is a group buy date listed on the product page that says when it starts and when it ends
Perfect. Thank you. Currently there's only a GB start date. But I assume there will be a GB end date posted once it goes live then?
Perfect. Thank you so much!
Hello, so I'm new to sandwich mount, but could I potentially add gasket strips to a sandwich mount to make it similar to one gasket mount, or would that not work? And also, for people who've tried both, what's the general feel/sound (ofc plate, case, switches all effect sound, but in general, or from your experience)?
I bought a Ducky One and I can't get the lights to turn on or the software to detect my keyboard. I can type with it just fine, but all the instructions online say to use fn + F9 or F10 to turn the lights on, or other combinations, but nothing happens. I have my it in a functioning USB port directly on my PC, but it still won't work. Any help or do I need to return it?
Keychron k2 vs Royal Kludge RK71
Which is the better keyboard?(please give reasons xD)
Whichever one has the features and price you prefer, because it has the features and price you prefer.
I have a cat that is notorious for pulling keys out of a regular old Logitech.
My understanding of mechanical keyboards is that you require a tool to change the keys.
Would buying one be more 'cat resistant'?
>My understanding of mechanical keyboards is that you require a tool to change the keys.
Nah. You can pull keycaps up with fingers, just harder to do so.
A mechanical keyboard would be easier for a cat to pull the keys off of, but it also wouldn't break because the cat did necessarily.
Hi everyone I bought some krytox 205g2 thinking It was g0.I did some research and I understand that it Is more difficult to apply but when applied it is like g0 right?
It's much thicker than 205g0 so a very light coating on linear switches is what I'd imagine is best use of it. That and stab wires.
So instead of the classic 3 brush stroke 1 Is enough?